5.    Remove the needle from the mono, and pull the mono through the fly line until there is just 15cm or so remaining on the punctured hole side of the fly line.

6.    Now!  The next two stages must be done quickly after each other.  With a lighter, melt, not burn, the end of the mono from the punctured hole and quickly go to step 7.

7.    Using a pair of flat nosed pliers flatten the still soft melted end of mono.

8.    The result should be this; a splayed end. This will serve as an anchor and stop the mono from slipping and being pulled through the punctured hole in the fly line.

9.    Draw the mono through the fly line until it reaches the punctured hole and position the spayed end of the mono so that it lies flat into the fly line. 

3.    Push the needle out about half way through the punctured hole.  You may need a pair of pliers to push the needle the whole way and drag through the mono in step 4.

4.    Thread your length of mono leader through the needle eye and pull the needle through the punctured hole in the fly line.

 

1.    Make sure that the end of your fly line has a straight, cut edge.  Select a fine pointed sewing needle; the smaller the diameter the better but make sure if you choose a extremely small needle that your chosen diameter of mono leader will thread through the eye.

 

2.    Once you have penetrated the core of the fly line about 5 mm, bend the main body of the fly line to a 90 degree angle to the needle and puncture the fly line with the needle point.

10.    Take a fly tying bobbin, spooled with Dyneema or another fine tying thread.  Make an open loop in the tying thread and hook it over the splayed end of the mono. This will just anchor the tying thread and stop it from slipping when spun.

11.    Grip the main body of the fly line close to the punctured hole with your left index finger and thumb.  With your right hand index finger and thumb grip the mono and the loose end of your tying thread close to the fly line.  Your fly tying bobbin should now be hanging from the splayed end of the mono. 

12.    With a circular movement of both hands at the same time, begin swinging the bobbin back and forth.  When enough momentum is reached, spin the bobbin around, steering it as it goes using your thumb tips. 

13.    Repeat step 12 until you have covered the end of the fly line in a taper with tying thread.  Do NOT use too many turns, this will cause build up.

14.    Trim off the tying thread on the bobbin end leaving enough for you to tie the two ends of tying thread to secure it all.  Take one knot above the fly line and one below.  Cut off the two tying thread ends as close to the whippings as possible.

15.    Cover the whole tying thread whippings with a thin coat of super glue.

16.    I find the best coating to use is Loon UV fly paint but you can also use UV Aquasure. The advantage with the Loon product is that it’s available in many colours.  When you apply your UV product it must be done in a poorly lit room, UV rays from daylight will set the coating quickly.  Once you have applied the UV coating, you can smooth it out carefully with a wet finger. 

17.    Once you are comfortable with the result, just move out into the daylight with it and rotate it a little so as to expose all sides well to UV rays.

 

This technique is not difficult to master but if on the first try to make the Perfection Connection the results are not up to par, just cut off the end of the fly line, approximately 1 m and begin again.  Or if you are worried about damaging a new fly line, practise first on an old one.

18.    And there you have it, a trouble free perfection connection.